Mawlidur Rasul SAW 1442H

For all the Muslims in the world, I would like to wish you a happy Mawlidur Rasul SAW. It is the day in the Islamic calendar, specifically on the 12th of Rabiul Awwal, which marks the birth of the Seal of the Prophets, Muhammad (Peace be Upon Him) This year it falls on the 29th of October. As Islamic calendar is based on the lunar cycle, the date of Islamic celebrations moves about two weeks earlier each year. The day was a national holiday for Brunei so I couldn’t post this until today 🙂

What is unfortunate though that this celebration and occasion for remembrance of the central figure of the Islamic faith was marred by terrible happenings in France. A teacher there was killed a few weeks before the day of Mawlid, because he decided to show his pupils the derogatory cartoons of the Prophet Muhammad by Charlie Hebdo, on the pretense of ‘free speech’. This murder caused the French president Macron to not admit that the cartoons was insensitive and refused to denounce the offending images. Because of this , the some Muslim countries retaliated with a boycott of French products, and some of their leaders even speak up against the French president.

For me, I am deeply saddened and offended that to the French, free speech means offending 1.8 billion Muslims of the world. None of this mess would happen if we respect each other in the first place, and try to understand each other, after all the years of the rift between the West and the Islamic world. Terrorists do not represent Islam – and this needs to be understood by the West. All the ‘Islamist’ terror organizations – Al Qaeda, ISIS etc etc are nothing but political driven terrorists under the disguise of Islam. It is a fact that most of the people murdered by these groups are Muslims.

If you are citing free speech, then why is it must be offending the feelings of others? Have we really stooped down so low as human beings it is okay or even necessary to hurt the feelings and sensitivities of others? Have we not learned the damages done by our forefathers, that we need to repeat the same mistakes again and again?

Nevertheless, for this Mawlidur Rasul, it is a perfect opportunity for us, Muslims or Non-Muslims to learn and understand the message he brought to the world and his inspirations. He never reacts against those who wronged him and even forgave them, and we should learn the endless patience that he have in the face of enmity.

“We have sent you ˹O Prophet˺ only as a mercy for the whole world.”

Qur’an Al Anbiya, Ayaat 107

Appreciation – Istanbul Pt.28– Şemsi Paşa Mosque

This is one of the mosques that I have forgotten to mention in my previous posts because frankly I literally forgot I had visited the Asian side of Istanbul. I visited it with a friend on one afternoon, so I think it was a rather short time. Nevertheless, here is the post!

This is one post that I am doing not following the time line of my visit. One afternoon in Istanbul my friend decided to bring me to the Asian side of the city to visit some historical mosques in Üsküdar. For you who did not know, Istanbul is situated on two continents, Europe and Asia, separated by the Bosphrous.

It was the afternoon of my visit to the Topkapi palace. I spend most of my mornings and early afternoon there, before proceeding to Edirnekapı again, meet with my friend, then perform the noon prayer at the Mihrimah Sultan Mosque and having a hearty but expensive Malay meal as a nearby Malaysian restaurant. We then went to the Asian side together via the tramway and the metro – which I think runs underneath the Bosphrous; a fact I have only noticed long after my visit. In the metro stations we see these reproductions on tiles of old maps depicting the Üsküdar area, and some of the archeological findings when they were excavating the line underneath the Bosphrous. It was amazingly captivating from a history lover’s point of view and I took several pictures of them ; unfortunately I have lost those pics now.

When we arrived it was already in the later half of the afternoon. As it was still winter, the sun sets quite early, so when we alighted the metro and exited the station, the sun was on its way to set. The golden hour give the best opportunity to take pictures, as you can see below even with a sub-par phone camera.

We went directly straight to the mosque near the edge of Bosphrous. It was somehow low profile with its modest size, but the architecture still commands an impressive sight. This is Şemsi Paşa Mosque, one of the mosque designed by the great Ottoman architect, Mimar Sinan, for Şemsi Paşa who was a Grand Vizier to the Ottoman Empire. Sinan designed this in 1580, when he was 90. Imagine still working during that age! However, it is agreed that most of the masterpieces Sinan produced was during these times.

The design of this mosque is quite unique in its layout. There are two parts to the complex of the mosque – the prayer hall and the Medrese (religious school). The main building of the mosque, the prayer hall, faces southeast, the direction of Mecca. However, the uniqueness lies with the plan for the Medrese, where it is parallel to the Bosphrous seashore. This is different from many of the mosques that I have seen with other mosques in Istanbul, which usually attaches the Medrese to the outer courtyard of the mosque according to where it faces, for example, the Sokollu Mehmet Paşa mosque that I had mentioned in the previous post. The Medrese is in an L shape, enclosing a portion of the courtyard of the mosque. A long wall encloses another side which leads to the edge of the seaside.

According to my friend, there is an interesting story to the mosque. Birds actually do not – and cannot – land on this mosque, due to the strong winds as it is right beside the Bosphrous sea. Story has it that the Şemsi Paşa, the Grand Vizier who commissioned this mosque, asked Mimar Sinan to built him a mosque where the birds won’t land on, and found him this location. The more you learn about Sinan, the more amazing to know about his character and wisdom.

It is also called Kuşkonmaz, which means…asparagus? I have no idea why the mosque is called this way as well, although I though it initially meant ‘where birds don’t land’

The mosque interior is rather small, reminding me of the Firuz Ağa Mosque near Sultan Ahmet Square, down to the floorplan. Most of the decorations are painted – perhaps only recently restored. There a several items hung on the walls such as framed calligraphic art – I remember specifically a framed Kaftan, but I could not find the photo at all. The tomb of the founder of the mosque, Şemsi Paşa, can be seen from the main prayer hall from an opening cordoned off by a grill screen. On one side, nearest the Mimbar, there was a screen off portion of the mosque, presumably reserved for women worshipers. Beautiful stained glass windows line the mosque, allowing colourful lights to enter the mosque with the late afternoon sun.

We exited the mosque after prayers and while waiting for the dusk prayer, we walked along the seaside. The water of the sea is precariously near the height of the stone steps, and with the waves of the water lapping and spilling over making the paths wet, I can’t help but think that I might slip and drop directly to the sea – a very morbid thought considering how deep the water is, and the fact that I cannot swim at all.

Resources : What is “Islamic” Art

I havent done a lot of these book spotlights before, I think it was when I got Mr. Broug’s book a long time ago (which he actually published another book – look for my next book spotlight on that one!) and now I get to have a bit more time and money to spend on books I think I can do this on a regular basis 🙂

I have been reading a lot of books lately, both online and offline versions, ever since I had a new hybrid tablet/laptop in my possession, which proves to be indispensable to my daily work and research on Islamic Art and Architecture.

Recently I had the chance to procure several titles both physically and digitally (through online services like Kobo) regarding Islamic Art and Architecture. Truly one of the best way you can learn about any subjects would be books written by academics, besides observing the subjects directly yourself and attempt to analyze it. One of the books I recently obtained is What is “Islamic” Art? Between Religion and Perception by Wendy M.K Shaw.

I barely got to the midpoint of this book, but in my opinion it is a very well written book regarding what is Islamic art. The book title is a simple question, perhaps, but the answer given in this book is quite extensive. I think it discusses the issue very well especially from the viewpoint of non Muslims or “Westerners” but it is also beneficial from Muslims like myself who often took the Islamic artistic expression for granted.

This book attempts to discuss Islamic art from a variety point of view, from external opinion like the Western perception of art, to internal view from Islamic sources like the Quran and the Sunnah. The writer also discusses this form of Art across many genres within Islamic art language, across the span of the religion’s history.

This book might be quite a heavy read especially for beginners who would appreciate a visual cue more, however the book also features a number of colour plates featuring notable examples of Islamic art throughout the ages and across many different Islamic lands, particularly those in the Middle East..

I am yet to finish this book because very often I would cross reference the book with other books I have to further understand what is being discussed, however I think it is a very good introduction and perhaps not just merely that but an invitation to discuss the many facets of Islamic art from a critical western point of view.

Appreciation – Istanbul Pt.27– Sokollu Mehmet Pasha Mosque

Towards the end of my last day of my journey, I revisited some of the places near where I had stayed to see what I had missed during my first few days. There was just a lot of things to be see it was quite disorienting at first, being in such a foreign land. Now that I understand my surroundings a little better (although sadly I will be leaving the next day) I am ready to explore a little bit more of the old city of Istanbul, through the paths and streets I walked through almost every day of my trip.

As I left the Grand Bazaar, I again walk back to my hotel from Sultanahmet square. As I passed the square I witnessed an Ottoman Military marching band (Mehter) playing in front of the Museum of Islamic Art. It was an interesting sight and I like to think I was lucky to pass the square at that time, as it seems like a rare occurrence that the band would play just when I came there, although I have no idea what is the occasion.

After the band finished playing, I resumed my way back down the hill to my hotel which is in Kadirga area. Along the way, I passed by a rather large mosque in the neighbourhood. I passed this mosque day in and day out, not thinking much about it, not realizing that this mosque is one of the most important mosque in Istanbul.

The mosque is called Sokollu Mehmet Pasha Mosque, a 16th century Ottoman Mosque built by the Grand Vizier Sokollu Mehmet Pasha and his wife Ismihan Sultan. It was designed by the grandmaster of Ottoman architecture Mimar Sinan. The size is generous and the style is quite typical of Ottoman Architecture, however as it sits on a slope, Mimar Sinan actually built the mosque over a platform that holds shops back in the day, which helps with the upkeep of the mosque.

I went into the compound of the mosque via a rather curious two flights of stairs, which is actually unique to this mosque, because as I said before, Sinan built it on top of a two storied courtyard, the lower being shops. In the main courtyard before the mosque’s main hall, there are the typical arched corridors of Ottoman imperial mosques, only this time they actually hold a Medrese, a religious school. Although nowadays it is covered with glass windows, and behind these glass facade I have no idea what are they used for currently. A quick search later I learned that they hold boys’ Quran classes, so they still function basically the same as they way they are before. In the center of the courtyard there is a 12-sided ablution fountain topped with a uniquely shaped dome, which looks like an onion somehow.

For the main prayer hall, it is what you would expect of an imperial Ottoman mosque, but it is very gorgeously decorated with blue Iznik tiles. The main wall of the Mihrab itself is covered with blue Iznik tiles from the floor to the ceiling. The dome is decorated with Ottoman style decorative painting, while the Mimbar is amarble masterpiece topped with the typical Ottoman hexagonal minaret shape, topped with a conical spire. It is covered with iznik tiles as well.

You might be wondering, why is it one of the most important mosque in Istanbul? The answer would be what lies hidden in some of the important spots within the mosque. This mosque actually holds pieces of the Hajratul Aswad, the black stone taken from the Kaaba in Mecca. It is special because I think it is the only instance of the black stone taken out from Mecca and installed in other places. When I came here, the Imam was there so he actually pointed out the stones which are actually quite hard to spot – The stones are inlaid into the marble walls in the front of the Mimbar and on the top of it, above the Mihrab, and above the main entrance into the main prayer hall.

I was rather dumbfounded to be honest. I did not have any idea that this mosque would hold one of the most precious relic from Mecca, somewhere that I am yearning to go to as a Muslim. I stayed for a while at the mosque, staring at these pieces of the stones, as the sky got darker and darker by the minute ; it was going to rain very soon. I have to go back to my hotel as soon as possible, as the rain of Istanbul is bitter and cold.

As I made my way back down the flight of stairs I went in, I stared back to the open door of the mosque. It is an experience that I couldn’t really explain. It was some sort of longing or missing. Perhaps a longing for Turkey that I will soon leave, or perhaps the spark in my heart, that calling from Mecca, that resonated with my inner self when I saw those pieces of stone.

*The entrance and the stairs to the main courtyard of the mosque.*

*The view from the main courtyard*, *with the ablution fountain*

*The entrance of the Mosque, with the painted ceiling of the dome and the Muqarnas above the door*

*The marble Mimbar of the mosque. You can see the beautiful geometric latticework on the balustrade as well as the iznik tile covered cone on the top.*

*Apologies for the blurry picture! This is the entire wall of the Mihrab, totally covered in blue iznik tiles*

*The main dome of the mosque with the gorgeous and delicate calligraphy work and decorative patterns*

Study – Colours in the Islamic World Pt 5– Transoxiania

For this edition we will be looking into Transoxiana, more commonly referred to as Central Asia. I think this region is one of the most interesting and colourful region for Islamic art and architecture.

In this instalation of Colours in the Islamic World, we are going to look into the colours of the Transoxiana region. You might be unfamiliar with this term (and I only learned about it just recently!) so let’s learn together about this mesmerizing region

Transoxiana

Transoxiana refers to a region within Central Asia particularly within Uzbekistan, Tajikistan, Southwest Kazakhstan and South Kyrgyzstan. The Transoxiana is an ancient term referring to this region used by the Romans and even back to the time of Alexander the Great . The Ancient Iranians called these lands Turan, a term used in the Persian epic Shanameh, while the Arabs called it Ma Wara An Nahr (what lies beyond the river), as it sits between the rivers of Amu Darya and Syr Darya.

History

It was said that Muslims conquests in this region started around the 7th and 8th century by the Umayyads and the Abbasids, which is quite early in the history of Islam. The Arabs came into the region after the battle of Nihavend in 642. However further attempts to expand their conquest into the region failed repetitively until during the reign of Ummayad Caliph Al-Walid, although resistance against the Arab conquerors kept ongoing. During the Abbasid era, Islam began to flourish in Transoxiana when the Abbasids consider non-Arabs equal to their Arab brothers, in contrast with the Umayyad, who consider non Arab as second class citizens and discouraged conversions. Many Islamic scholars and theologians such as Abu Mansur Alturidi, Ibrahim Asmarakandi, Abu Sina (Avicenna) and Muhammad Ibn Ismail Al Bukhari (Albukhari) all come from cities like Samarkand and Bukhari from this region. Hence, there are lots of Islamic monuments both secular and religious were built due to their importance to Islam.Given the unique location as it is situation on the crossroads betweenthe Far East and the Middle East, these buildings are unique in terms of decoration and architecture.

Colours

I remember as video series on Islamic art and architecture noting about the colours of the Islamic world and I particularly made a mental note to myself about the colours of Transoxiana. Since this region is quite naturally desert like with semi-arid climate, one of the most prominent colour used for important building such as mosques, tombs and madrasas is Turquoise, as the colour actually pops out against the drab yellow of the sand and the climate, and thus making them very much visible from far away. Domes and minarets in glossy shiny tiles are decorated with these green-blue colours, so you can very much see them anywhere in the cities. Deep blue, pale and bright yellow, white and cobalt are also used to complement the turquoise, as a part of the general decoration of the buildings, although not as prominent as Turquoise.

Notable Examples

*Bukhara Mosque decoration* *(Wikipedia)*. *White, pale yellow and blue dominate the colours of the decoration*

Internet Finds : Aslam Al Silahdar Mosque

I am a subrcriber to the AramcoWorld magazine both digital and printed versions (and you should too, it is full of articles about Arab art and culture!) and I came across another virtual tour of a mosque in Egypt from its digital publication.

I never heard of this mosque before, so I did a quick google search. Apparently There are very little information of this very historical mosque, not even Wikipedia provides enough!

*A screenshot of the virtual tour of the mosque. (courtesy of https://www.aramcoworld.com/Resources/Events-Exhibitions/Virtual-Tour-Aslam-al-Silahdar-Mosque)*

Aslam al-Silahdar mosque is a Mamluk era mosque built by Amir Aslam Al Silahdar in 1344-1345 and considered one of the masterpiece of Islamic Mamluk architecture. As it is a very old mosque, conservation works are very often done on this mosque to preserve it. The most recent one finished in 2006 where all the decorations are preserved and the structural integrity of the mosque are strengthened further.

This virtual tour allow you to put yourself in this mosque (albeit digitally) and allow you to immerse yourself in the history and art of this charming mosque. You can see the incredible details, like the beautiful woodwork of the Mimbar, or the beautiful calligraphic works on the walls. Also notable is the fact that you can go to places where it is usually reserved for the Imams and the Muezzin of the mosque, like the stairway of the minaret. Although regrettably when you look up, the view is blurred, presumably not to show the cameras taking the 360 panoramic photos. This is umfortunate becase then you cannot fully appreciate the ceiling and particularly the dome of the mosque.

You can do the virtual tour here

https://my.matterport.com/show/?m=YsCSsrvXMQS&sr=1.92,-.02&ss=28